Here on Maui we have many quality tile and stone installers. We also have some that are, well, not so good. Of course I hope you select our company for your project. But even if you do not, these questions and answers will help you differentiate between a knowledgeable professional and someone that is just trying to make a quick buck.
The appearance of the finished product is important. But what is below the surface is even more important. Proper prep work, waterproofing and layout are the keys to a lasting tile or stone project.
Please Click on Each Question to Reveal the Answer
Are they licensed and insured?
The state of Hawaii requires all contractors to be
licensed by the state. Anyone involved in
installing ceramic or stone tile should have a C-51
license. The licensing process is designed for the
protection of the consumer. All licensed
contractors must have current liability insurance
and provide workman’s comp insurance if they have
employees.
They also must provide the state with proof that they have experience in their trade and must pass a trade specific examination before a license is provided.
Our companies license number is CT-29319, to confirm it is valid please click here.
To check on any other company’s license number please check http://pvl.ehawaii.gov/pvlsearch/app
To see why the state of Hawaii requires use of a licensed contractor and the benefits of doing so please check http://hawaii.gov/dcca/areas/rico/licensedcontractor/
They also must provide the state with proof that they have experience in their trade and must pass a trade specific examination before a license is provided.
Our companies license number is CT-29319, to confirm it is valid please click here.
To check on any other company’s license number please check http://pvl.ehawaii.gov/pvlsearch/app
To see why the state of Hawaii requires use of a licensed contractor and the benefits of doing so please check http://hawaii.gov/dcca/areas/rico/licensedcontractor/
Do they adhere to ANSI AND TCNA standards?
ANSI-
American National Standards Institute- Provides
ANSI specifications for the installation of Ceramic
Tile.
TCNA- Tile Council of North America-Provides Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation as a guide to assist in clarifying and standardizing the installation specifications for ceramic tile. It is updated yearly. Experienced tile contractors refer both the ANSI specifications and the most recent copy of the TCNA handbook to confirm that their installation methods meet proven, industry approved methods.
We make sure our installations not only meet these minimum standards but exceed them
TCNA- Tile Council of North America-Provides Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation as a guide to assist in clarifying and standardizing the installation specifications for ceramic tile. It is updated yearly. Experienced tile contractors refer both the ANSI specifications and the most recent copy of the TCNA handbook to confirm that their installation methods meet proven, industry approved methods.
We make sure our installations not only meet these minimum standards but exceed them
What steps do they take to prevent mold, mildew, and moisture problems?
These are the steps
we take.
1. We do not use water resistant drywall in wet areas; only tile backer boards that are designed for wet areas are used.
2. We install and flood test our waterproof membranes for the shower pans before tile is installed. We make sure there is proper drainage so the moisture can escape and that the weep holes on the drain are not blocked.
3. We also install a high tech, low VOC waterproof membrane on all our tub and shower walls. This is on top of the water resistant tile backer board or mortar bed. Tile backer boards and mortar beds are not damaged by water but do not prevent water penetration into wall cavity. We use products like Laticrete Hydroban- http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/LDS6630_IMPROVED.pdf
or Laticrete 9235-
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds2360.pdf
4. We also use thinset mortar, grout and caulk that have mildew and mold resistant additives built in. We do not use mastic adhesive in wet areas.
5. We recommend epoxy grout like
Laticrete Spectra Lock-
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds6850.pdf
or high tech cement grouts like Laticrete Permagrout-
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/ds2500.pdf
6. For cement grouts we recommend and natural stone we recommend installing a sealer from companies such as Drytreat- http://www.drytreat.com/
or Prosoco- http://www.prosoco.com/ProductList.asp?m=0&i=6
Sealers do not last forever or make grout or stone stain proof. Sealers make the cleaning process easier and help slow down moisture absorption by the grout or stone.
7. Another option we use the Schluter shower system. They are an innovative company originally from Germany. They have some excellent materials for tile installation and great information on their website. This is a link to an article entitled “Essential Water Management in Tiled Showers.” http://www.schluter.com/5232.aspx
A properly built tile assembly in a wet area sheds water quickly and prevents moisture and vapor penetration into the walls or floor below.
Proper maintenance is also required. The shower should be cleaned regularly with a neutral cleaner. It is recommended to use a squeegee or towel to dry the walls after each use. All bathrooms need adequate ventilation, use of an exhaust fan is recommended.
1. We do not use water resistant drywall in wet areas; only tile backer boards that are designed for wet areas are used.
2. We install and flood test our waterproof membranes for the shower pans before tile is installed. We make sure there is proper drainage so the moisture can escape and that the weep holes on the drain are not blocked.
3. We also install a high tech, low VOC waterproof membrane on all our tub and shower walls. This is on top of the water resistant tile backer board or mortar bed. Tile backer boards and mortar beds are not damaged by water but do not prevent water penetration into wall cavity. We use products like Laticrete Hydroban- http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/LDS6630_IMPROVED.pdf
or Laticrete 9235-
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds2360.pdf
4. We also use thinset mortar, grout and caulk that have mildew and mold resistant additives built in. We do not use mastic adhesive in wet areas.
5. We recommend epoxy grout like
Laticrete Spectra Lock-
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds6850.pdf
or high tech cement grouts like Laticrete Permagrout-
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/ds2500.pdf
6. For cement grouts we recommend and natural stone we recommend installing a sealer from companies such as Drytreat- http://www.drytreat.com/
or Prosoco- http://www.prosoco.com/ProductList.asp?m=0&i=6
Sealers do not last forever or make grout or stone stain proof. Sealers make the cleaning process easier and help slow down moisture absorption by the grout or stone.
7. Another option we use the Schluter shower system. They are an innovative company originally from Germany. They have some excellent materials for tile installation and great information on their website. This is a link to an article entitled “Essential Water Management in Tiled Showers.” http://www.schluter.com/5232.aspx
A properly built tile assembly in a wet area sheds water quickly and prevents moisture and vapor penetration into the walls or floor below.
Proper maintenance is also required. The shower should be cleaned regularly with a neutral cleaner. It is recommended to use a squeegee or towel to dry the walls after each use. All bathrooms need adequate ventilation, use of an exhaust fan is recommended.
Do they use mastic and/or greenboard in wet areas?
This should never be done. Mastic is an adhesive
that should only be used to bond small ceramic tile
8” x 8” or less to walls in dry areas only.
‘Greenboard’ is water resistant drywall; it is not
waterproof and should not be used on tub surrounds
or shower walls.
Do they claim tile and grout are waterproof?
Tile and grout are not waterproof and no topical
sealer can make them so. A tile or stone
installation is a beautiful, easy to clean, water
resistant surface. Any tile or stone installation
in a wet area must include a properly installed
waterproof membrane to protect the building from
moisture damage.
Do they flood test their shower pans before tile is installed?
All shower pans should be flood tested for 24
hours, before mortar bed and shower floor tile is
installed.
Do they install waterproof membranes over a sloped surface?
All waterproof
membranes should slope to the drain. If they do not
the mortar bed will stay constantly saturated which
can lead to mold and mildew problems.
What do they do to prevent clogging weep holes in shower drains?
Weep holes are part of a two part clamping shower
drain. They allow moisture that makes it way to the
shower membrane to escape. It is critical that
before the mortar bed is placed that small gravel,
tile spacers, or filter fabric be placed over weep
holes. Many installers skip this important detail.
What will they do to ensure that the tile doesn't crack?
First we must answer why tile cracks. There are
many reasons but they are fairly simple to prevent
1. Improper tile selection. Tiles designed for wall use only are not durable enough to use on floors. Some tiles that are suitable for floors are not suitable for exterior installations. Some tiles that are fine for residential use should not be used in a heavy use commercial application.
2. Wrong type of adhesive or poor coverage of adhesive. Sometimes installers use mastic adhesive on floor installations. Mastic adhesive is a glue. It does not have the compressive strength to support heavy traffic. Most installers always use a thinset mortar. This is cement based and can handle heavy traffic. There is a wide variety in quality of thinset mortar. (There is another question further down the list on that subject). Even when thinset is used each tile needs adequate mortar under the entire tile to support it. If you have a few random cracked tiles throughout your floor this may be the cause. A dropped pot might chip or nick a tile but it should not crack a properly installed tile.
3. Structural Movement. –This is actually the most common cause of tile cracking. Do you have a crack that rambles along from one tile directly to the next? This is likely the cause. Don’t worry it doesn’t usually mean your house has structural problems. It is natural for concrete slabs and wood structures to move. When tile is directly bonded to or not allowed to move separately from the structure cracks appear when the structure moves
1. Improper tile selection. Tiles designed for wall use only are not durable enough to use on floors. Some tiles that are suitable for floors are not suitable for exterior installations. Some tiles that are fine for residential use should not be used in a heavy use commercial application.
2. Wrong type of adhesive or poor coverage of adhesive. Sometimes installers use mastic adhesive on floor installations. Mastic adhesive is a glue. It does not have the compressive strength to support heavy traffic. Most installers always use a thinset mortar. This is cement based and can handle heavy traffic. There is a wide variety in quality of thinset mortar. (There is another question further down the list on that subject). Even when thinset is used each tile needs adequate mortar under the entire tile to support it. If you have a few random cracked tiles throughout your floor this may be the cause. A dropped pot might chip or nick a tile but it should not crack a properly installed tile.
3. Structural Movement. –This is actually the most common cause of tile cracking. Do you have a crack that rambles along from one tile directly to the next? This is likely the cause. Don’t worry it doesn’t usually mean your house has structural problems. It is natural for concrete slabs and wood structures to move. When tile is directly bonded to or not allowed to move separately from the structure cracks appear when the structure moves
What can be done to prevent cracks?
Use a properly specified tile. Make sure it has
full coverage of the bonding mortar and install it
over a structurally sound substrate.
To guarantee no structural cracks a crack suppression or uncoupling membrane should be used under the entire floor and expansion joints need to be installed to allow for movement.
Here is an article from Fine Homebuilding that shows how a membrane from Schluter can be used over wood floors to prevent cracks, entitled “A Tile Floor That Won’t Crack”
http://www.schluter.com/media/articles/fhb_art_tile_floor_us.pdf
Some of the products we use are:
Schluter Ditra http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
Noble Seal CIS http://www.noblecompany.com/Portals/0/PRODUCT%20INFO/Product%20Descriptions/NobleSeal%20CIS%20Product%20Decription%200409.pdf
Laticrete Blue 92 http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds6470.pdf
For more on the principals and science behind why we recommend membranes under all our tile work please see this article from Schluter- “Understanding the Paradigm Shift in Underlayment Technology” http://www.schluter.com/3785.aspx
To guarantee no structural cracks a crack suppression or uncoupling membrane should be used under the entire floor and expansion joints need to be installed to allow for movement.
Here is an article from Fine Homebuilding that shows how a membrane from Schluter can be used over wood floors to prevent cracks, entitled “A Tile Floor That Won’t Crack”
http://www.schluter.com/media/articles/fhb_art_tile_floor_us.pdf
Some of the products we use are:
Schluter Ditra http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
Noble Seal CIS http://www.noblecompany.com/Portals/0/PRODUCT%20INFO/Product%20Descriptions/NobleSeal%20CIS%20Product%20Decription%200409.pdf
Laticrete Blue 92 http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds6470.pdf
For more on the principals and science behind why we recommend membranes under all our tile work please see this article from Schluter- “Understanding the Paradigm Shift in Underlayment Technology” http://www.schluter.com/3785.aspx
Do they recommend use of uncoupling or crack suppression membranes?
When tile is bonded directly to the structure any
movement can transfer to the finished tile
installation and cause cracking. (Ex. Bonding
directly to a concrete slab or plywood floor.) Most
installations can benefit from an uncoupling or
crack suppression membrane to mitigate chances of
cracking. I will be happy to discuss options with
you. For more information please click on this
link-www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
I recommend and install Schluter Ditra uncoupling membrane. This product has been used for over 2 decades in Europe. It provides complete separation from substrate movement and other benefits. It can be used over both concrete and plywood floors.
I recommend and install Schluter Ditra uncoupling membrane. This product has been used for over 2 decades in Europe. It provides complete separation from substrate movement and other benefits. It can be used over both concrete and plywood floors.
Do their installations allow for expansion?
All tile installations should include
movement/expansion joints. Without them tile
installations can crack or actually loose their
bond. By planning for these early on they can be
installed in a way that does not take away from the
aesthetics of the finished installation. The
architect should specify their location. They are
recommended every 20’-25’ for interior
installations and every 12’-16’ for exterior
installations. Smaller installations are usually ok
with perimeter movement joints only.
Do they use the proper thinset for the job?
Thinset is the main product used to bond tile to
the substrate. It typically comes in 50lb. bags and
can range from $5 to $40 per bag. Many tile setters
use the cheapest thinset they can find to save a
few bucks. There are industry
standards and manufactures guidelines to help find
the right thinset for each job. Are you choosing
porcelain or glass tile, is it an interior or
exterior installation, wet or dry installation,
what are you bonding too? Check with your installer
to see if they are using the correct product.
How do they trowel their thinset?
It seems like a simple thing but done improperly it
can lead to loss of bond and/or cracked tile. The
substrate should be thoroughly cleaned. The proper
sized notch trowel should be chosen based on the
size of the tile. The installer should spread
thinset first with the flat side of his trowel to
‘burn’ the thinset into the substrate. Then using
the notch side of his trowel comb an even bed of
thinset all in the same direction. When the
installer spreads in a swirl pattern it can lead to
unwanted air pockets underneath the tile. Then the
tile should be placed quickly in the fresh thinset.
The tile should be slid back and forth ¼”
perpendicular to the direction of the notches. This
provides full coverage and a strong bond. Some
large tiles or difficult to bond tiles like
porcelain benefit from a skim coat (called back
buttering) on the back of the tile just before it
is placed in the fresh thinset.
Do they use thinset to build up a floor to proper elevation?
Some tile setters use excess thinset mortar to
build up the tile to the proper elevation. This is
incorrect. Thinset mortar is designed only to bond
the tile to the substrate and to correct minor
irregularities in the substrate. Thinset mortar
will loose bond strength and shrink when applied
too thick. That is why it is called thinset! A
mortar bed, self leveling cement, cement board, or
medium bed mortar should be used when the substrate
is not at the correct elevation.
Do they recommend mud jobs for shower walls and tub surrounds?
(Mud job is portland cement mortar over wire lathe
and a moisture barrier.)
This is way the ‘real’ tile man/woman likes to prepare shower and tub surrounds. While cement board can provide a high quality installation, a mud job is they best way. Check with your installer to see if they offer this service. It is labor intensive and requires skill and experience to do it right. Those in the know realize its worth.
This is way the ‘real’ tile man/woman likes to prepare shower and tub surrounds. While cement board can provide a high quality installation, a mud job is they best way. Check with your installer to see if they offer this service. It is labor intensive and requires skill and experience to do it right. Those in the know realize its worth.
Are they experienced in the installation of epoxy grout?
Typical grouts are cement based. They have greatly
improved over the years and are what I would
recommend for most installations. But for the best
stain and mildew resistance you may want to
consider an epoxy grout. They are more difficult to
install and the material cost is significantly
higher than standard grouts. If you are considering
this option make sure you choose an installer that
has extensive installation experience with epoxy
grout.
Why should I hire a contractor?
The diy tv shows make installing tile looks so
easy.
If you are willing to do the research, and have the time to do it right, tile is something a do it yourselfer can handle. In fact our company can even provide you consultation to get you started on the right foot. (Or the goofy foot if you prefer)
The diy shows make it look easy because many times they skip steps, like thinset under the cement board or mesh tape on the joints, or any moisture or waterproof membranes.
Just like cooking looks a lot easier on the Food Channel than it is in real life so can renovation.
If you are willing to do the research, and have the time to do it right, tile is something a do it yourselfer can handle. In fact our company can even provide you consultation to get you started on the right foot. (Or the goofy foot if you prefer)
The diy shows make it look easy because many times they skip steps, like thinset under the cement board or mesh tape on the joints, or any moisture or waterproof membranes.
Just like cooking looks a lot easier on the Food Channel than it is in real life so can renovation.
Will they show up when they say they will and return your phone calls?
We show up when we say we will and we will contact
you promptly if for some reason we cannot. We will
return your phone calls no later than the next
business day.
Do they consult with you regarding layout? Are they willing to take the time to answer your questions so that you end of with the tile or stone installation you envision?
Every tile installer has an opinion on the best way
to layout a tile job including myself. But we will
consult with you prior to installation to get your
opinion. We enjoy assisting our clients and
answering their questions. Contact us as early as
possible and we can work with your architect,
interior designer, and/or general contractor so
that the project is properly detailed so that your
tile or stone installation can be properly and
beautifully installed.
What type of guarantee do they offer?
Our standard warranty is 1 year. Most of the
installation materials we use have 10-15
warranties. In reality a properly installed tile
job should last decades.
We try to develop life long relationships with our clients. If you follow our recommendations for installation methods and you select a quality tile we don’t think you will have any problems. If you do have a problem call us, and we will do everything to solve the problem. Even if the job was completed years ago.
How many times have you heard contractors say, “I’ve been doing it this way for years and never had a problem”? Well if they aren’t doing a good job then they probably are changing their phone number and company name every other year.
We actually attempt to contact our clients just before the first year is completed to see if any repairs are needed. We don’t try to hide from previous clients.
Of course even quality tile installations need maintenance. The owner needs to clean them regularly with non harsh neutral cleaners. Movement joints are like belts on your car, they do need to be replaced eventually.
We also provide service contracts. We can come back on a yearly basis, provide a heavy duty cleaning, touch up any minor grout or caulk problems, and reseal if needed.
We try to develop life long relationships with our clients. If you follow our recommendations for installation methods and you select a quality tile we don’t think you will have any problems. If you do have a problem call us, and we will do everything to solve the problem. Even if the job was completed years ago.
How many times have you heard contractors say, “I’ve been doing it this way for years and never had a problem”? Well if they aren’t doing a good job then they probably are changing their phone number and company name every other year.
We actually attempt to contact our clients just before the first year is completed to see if any repairs are needed. We don’t try to hide from previous clients.
Of course even quality tile installations need maintenance. The owner needs to clean them regularly with non harsh neutral cleaners. Movement joints are like belts on your car, they do need to be replaced eventually.
We also provide service contracts. We can come back on a yearly basis, provide a heavy duty cleaning, touch up any minor grout or caulk problems, and reseal if needed.
If you have any other questions please contact us and we
will be happy to assist you. We will answer your questions
even if you plan to hire someone else or if you need some
good advice on how to do the job yourself.